Rolex

We all know that the dial condition is essential to the quality of a watch.  And then next thing is the case.  How many time have you heard the claim unpolished case.  Probably more times than you can shake a stick at. How can you tell if a case is truly unpolished.  Well, be the original owner with a very strong memory.  Or  try and use your best judgment and follow a few simple guidelines.  Simply I wish. I will say however, unpolished case are probably 1 in every hundred that claim to be unpolished. It really is a rarity. 

Can RSC recut the lugs and give a great beveled look again sure but you lose some metal and you lose the flatness that an unpolished case enjoys.  I don't even think that getting out a set of calipers can guaranty accuracy of the unpolished claim.  Rolex case lugs are asymmetric.  I know that sounds a little off in a world of precision machining but the reason the lug shape is different on the crown side is to accommodate the crown guards so that side of the case does not appear out of proportion.  I think we all have noticed this but think it is either our eyes playing games or an overly polished case.  Polishing will make it narrower but for the purpose of validating an unpolished case you can expect to have a slightly smaller lug shape on the crown side.  So putting the odd shaped lugs to bed we move on to how can we figure out what an unpolished case should look like.  By example.  You need to see a good example and compare it to another that we assume to have been polished.

The problem is having a chances to see example so that you have a reference point to help you evaluate what you have seen with what is in front of you.  I was lucky enough, after several watchmakers evaluation of the case, to take a few pictures and share some of the points that were made to me.  The two watches in question are a 17xx mil from around 1967 and a 200xx from around 1968 with the latter being the one "Unpolished".  The one with the bracelet mounted is obviously the unpolished watch in question form 1968.

Again as we know nothing is for certain with Rolex but comparing these two examples can give you at least a feel for what to look for in comparing cases.  

As always having the piece in your hand is really helpful.  You can feel the sharp edges on the underside that are so sharp they can almost cut your finger. 

The position of the lug holes in comparison to the edge of the lug bevel also really counts for a lot.

Obviously the thickness when comparing two cases is a solid indicator.  Not so much in the asymmetric aspect but actual heft is apparent side by side.

The "meat" around the crown guards tells a story also.

Clean line and flat case side.

I hope these pictures can help you in the future to , evaluate, appreciate and understand the condition of a case whether it is unpolished, shirt rubbed, or recut by a master watchmaker.