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amanico
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The Explorer II Ref 1655, an In Depth Review

Did you ever dream of being an Explorer?



It was time to try to give to this watch the interest it deserves.

The Rolex History is not only full of Subs, or GMT, but also includes for several decades the Explorer models, like the 1016, the 1655, and the 16 550 / 570.

The Explorers are, to me, great tool watches, which play on another ground or register.

Here, we aren't on the Air, nor under the Sea, but on / or UNDER the Earth, which is not less interesting.

Here, an old ad which shows that Rolex was one of the brands which attended to the International Geophysic Year ( I.G.Y ), as well as some other brands like ...JLC with the well called Géophysic.



From Sir Edmund Hilary and his first Himalaya Expedition in 1953 ( but did he really wear an Explorer? ), till nowadays, from the 6350 to the actual 16570, without forgetting the 1016 which knew an exceptional longevity of 26 years ( !!! ), or the ephemere 16550 ( only 3 production years ), there were several versions, different models made, created.

Curiously, the 1655 was not a successful watch at all.

Made from 1971 till 1984, it wasn't really appreciated at this time, by the normal consumers, and by the Collectors.

WHY?

Because of the ground it is playing on?

Because of its very particular aesthetic?

Let's see ...

1/ The communication about this watch was interesting.

Actually the question is :

Did this watch have a too narrow target?

Rolex communicated a lot on the topic of the Scientific Expeditions, the Caves, the Volcanos, etc...

Here, the French Cave Explorer Jean Francois Pernette:



And also the Volcano Explorer Haroun Tazief:



The message is clear, Rolex enhanced the quality of their watches, able to stand the worst conditions, as Heat, Humidity, in the most extrem conditions.

The Explorer II, like any other tool watch, is built for this kind of adventure, and is one of the most precious tool for Survive.

But Rolex advertized about their watches by using some Stars, like the 3 times Olympic Gold medal Sky Champion Jean Claude Killy, weating his ...Explorer II you can buy for 455 USD...( The watch, not the Champion, of course )



Sign of the times?

We slowly slide from the Tool Watch message to the Star System message, as if it was the beginning of the evidence that the tool watch image wasn't enough to sell this Explorer II?

Lately, Rolex did communicate again on the true values of the Explorer II, now referenced 16 570:



Later, a ( false ) legend was born: Steve Mac Queen, the " King of Cool ", wore an Explorer II 1655.

But nobody saw him wearing it, and there is no pic prooving any relation between him and this Rolex.

In fact, Steve Mac Queen wore another Rolex, the 5512:



Still nowadays, this Legend is still alive, and we use to hear, here and there, that nickname to illustrate the 1655...So wrongly called " Steve Mac Queen "...

Does it need that?

Not sure at all, as this watch has plenty of qualities, which are more interesting than so called Legends, or Star System advertising...

2/ The Watch.

A/ The 1655 is an Authentic Tool Watch:



- As most of the professional Rolex Watches, The Explorer II is an Officially Certified Chronometer, which provides to the watch a particular reliability and accuracy.

Pic found on the net ( don't know who to credit for ):



The movement, as officially said, has been tested in 5 positions and at 3 specified temperatures during 15 Days before receiving the Title of Officialy Ceritified Chronometer.

- It is water resistant to 330 feet, so 100 meters, with a screw down crown, which is not necessary on a non diving watch, but important if you submit the time keeper to extrem conditions, or temperatures.

Here, some witnesses of the extraordinary capacities and resistance of the Explorer Watches ( Explorer Booklet, page 4 and 5 ):



- A Second Hour Hand to allow the reading of time on 24 Hours.

Note that on the Rolex 1655, the 2d Hour Hand is not independant, and the 24 hours Bezel is not turning, so you won't have the possibility to have a 2d Time zone, like on the 1675 GMT of the same era.

But this second hour hand ( first orange, then, from the mid 70ies, red ) is useful when you want to know if you're on a day or night time, in some places where you can't distinguish the night from the day, like in caves .

Here, some macros of the 24 hours hand...





You will notice on the outside part of the hand some red painting, as an evidence that the hand has faded to orange...

The 1655 was made for this particular use, indeed, and it perfectly fits this purpose.

Let's think about that:

What Rolex watches, belonging to the Professional Line ( Explorer, GMT, Sea Dweller, Submariner, Daytona, Yacht Master ) was or were never made in precious metal?

The Sea Dweller, and the ... different Explorers.

A coincidence?

B/ The 1655 is a watch with a very strong personality:

- A strong and charming watch, rather than beautiful.

The 1655 is a very particular watch, a watch apart in the Rolex production.

It doesn't share the aesthetic codes of the other watches, as the timeless " 3 / 6 / 9 dial of the Explorer, or the round circles of the Explorer II 16 570, Submariner, GMT or Sea Dweller.

Here some comparison pics with the other Explorers:

With the 1016:





Or the Three Explorers together...



I think that in this last pic, you have all the interest and the specificity of the Explorer II 1655.

While the 2 others are somewhat classic in their design, timeless and elegant, the 1655 really plays in another register.

Which mainly makes the difference, here, is the dial with original Hour, Minutes and 24 hour Hands, and some very specific indexes.







On these macros, you will notice the specificity of these hands, which are black painted at the begining, then white ( or orange, for the 24 Hours hand ) painted on the 3 quarters of their lenght.

Their shape is also very special, and I don't only speak, here, about the 24 Hour hand, but of the Hour ( fat ) and minute hand ( narrower ).

And as we speak about hands, and to be complete on this topic, we must have an eye on the 1655 first generation, which had 3 particularities:

The bezel, but we'll see that a bit later,

The 24 Hour hand, not in its shape but in its color ( orange which fades to yellow with time )

The straight second hand. ( Credit pic: Antiquorum )



You can check, there is no other Rolex watch, AFAIK, with such hands.

You will also notice the original indexes, which are not 12, but 24, all around the dial.



The 8 indexes which are centered correspond to each five minutes indication, and to the pair hours, while the short rectangular indexes, just near the bezel, correspond to the impair hours.

In fact, you have to use the centered indexes if you want to read the minutes in an easier way, but you will need some time to be used to this specific location of the indexes, indeed.

The bezel is also another specific detail on the 1655.

Like on the Explorer II ref 16 570, the bezel is not turning, but the specificity is on the font:

I should say the bezels, as there were several on the 1655, as perfectly shown here:

Centered numbers or not, fat or thin indexes, shape of the " 1 " on the 10, 12, 16, 18 hour indexes, large or small " baton " indexes, here are all the variations perfectly summed on this pic I don't know who to credit for:



The funny thing is the contradiction, or at least, the opposition between the wise style of the beze, and the very 70ies layout of the dial.

It adds to the charm of this watch, indeed.

- Personal thoughts on the 1655:

As previously said, this is not really an elegant watch, like the 1016, for example, but it is a lovely one.

How can we resist to this thick case, the huge plexy, the matt dial, and the original layout of the dial with this fascinating Big Red / Orange Arrow?





You will certainly appreciate the blend of the polished and brushed finish of the case, the sunburst finish of the bezel, and the contrast with the matt dial, in a nice and interesting chromatic ballet.

The first thing which jumps to the eyes is this big colored arrow hand, a bit flashy, but to me, perfectly à propos on this watch.

The purpose of the 1655 was to offer the possibility to cave explorers to not loose the notion of Day / Night time.

So a big " flashy" arrow enhances the use of this watch, its complication, reminding its purpose.



The look is very 70ies, indeed, and even if the dial may appear a bit tortured with all these indexes which are located at different levels, it reinforces its charm.

It may make echo to the big thick case, and contrast with the simpler, thinner bezel.

It is the whole look of the watch which makes its charm, this particular blend, not to say contradictions.





Difficult to put in words, but a bit like if the contradictions were part of the harmony of the watch.

The very curious thing is that I didn't feel the same love, the same attraction with all rthe 1655.

Many if them have lost tritium, and, hence, went with white indexes, like this 1st Generation:



I don't even speak of the service dials, with Luminova indexes.

Others came with a rivetted bracelet which wasn't in good condition and gave to the watch a very cheap look.

While a modern bracelet is, to me, a neccessary compromise with the Past, as well as a nice patina gives to the watch all is charm, and to the dial all is depth and interest.





Wearing a 1655 is an extraordinay moment of pleasure...

Dressy or casual, it doesn't matter, as this watch is really made for all the situations:







On a modern bracelet, the 1655 sits perfectly on the wrist and its size and general volume contribute to its comfort, adding a nice presence, too.

As you can see on this last pic, the distorsion due to the chimney plexy is still reasonable, and allows an easy reading of the hour, once you're used to these indexes.

Conclusion:

It is now time to try to answer why the Explorers, and particularly the 1655 and the 16570 don't have the success they deserve.

Things are maybe changing a bit for the 1655.

While it was released, and during its 13 / 14 years of Life, this reference didn't have many lovers, maybe due to the fact that Cave Explorers or Climbers were less " glamour " than some Stars wearing other Rolex models?

Maybe because of its complex dial?

Maybe because of its very 70ies look?

Maybe because of all these reasons, put together...

For some few years, now, things are changing with People 's perception on this watch.

What was considered as a flaw may be now seen as strong points, its specificity in the world of rolex watches, and its improbable look, for instance.

The lack of love is still sensible with the 16570.

It is not fair at all.

All these Explorers are true Tool Watches, with a very " à propos " design end treatment.

There is no cheating, here.

Have another look on the pic I post above, of the 1016 / 1655 / 16570 together...

How can we resist to this?

Therefore, we all dreamt about Explorations, Expeditions of the Extrem.

Wearing a part of these Stories is belonging to these Stories.

It was time to say it.

What else to ask?

Best.

Nicolas 

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