The modern Milgauss

May 22, 2013,08:35 AM
 

Rolex have, over the years, manufactured watches for very specific uses. Diving watches. Explorers watches. In the mid-1950s, the name GMT-Master was registered, and with it came the Aviator’s watch. It was also at this time that Rolex took an unusual twist. The Milgauss. This watch was created for scientists and laboratory professionals who needed to measure time in an environment where there was, quite often, the presence of very strong magnetic fields. The Milgauss was manufactured in steel and was guaranteed to work in magnetic fields up to 1000 Gauss. It is from this that the name of the watch was derived…Mille Gauss. CERN were one of the very first to guarantee the watch’s ability to withstand the magnetic field.


I have read in a number of books that the Milgauss was first introduced in 1954. It is probable that the first reference (6543) was announced in the Basel Fair of 1954, but was most unlikely to have been available at that time. Further, this first reference, 6543, was manufactured in such small numbers (believed to be just 88), that it is hard to say this was the official launch. According to Rolex, the first Milgauss was launched in 1956. This almost certainly refers to the second series of Milgauss, the 6541. Both 6543 and 6541 housed the caliber 1080.


In 1964, Rolex released the reference 1019, using the calibre 1580. I plan a review of the 1019 for later in the year. It is certainly one of the watches that sit very high on my wish-list. The 1019 stayed in production until 1988. There was then a gap. A huge gap, in fact, until 2007 when Rolex decided to revive the Milgauss. And it is this revival that I want to look at now. In 2007, Rolex announced a new Milgauss model, reference 116400. The new reference came with a 40mm diameter (the 1019 being 38mm). It is equipped with a calibre 3131 and available in either black or white dial, with the second hand in orange and bearing the shape of a lightning bolt. The lightning bolt was a tribute to a feature on the 6541. To my mind, the 116400 is still my favourite modern Rolex in production. I think it is actually a superb watch from so many perspectives. I have owned my 116400 for over a year so feel comfortable giving it a review.


Picture courtesy of Rolex

Picture courtesy of Rolex

First of all, what do we really mean by anti-magnetic? According to the German Industry Norm, a watch is considered anti-magnetic if it can keep its accuracy +/- 30 secs when exposed to a magnetic field of around 60 Gauss. That puts into context the degree to which the Milgauss can cope with exposure to extreme magnetic variation.


The modern Milgauss houses a “Faraday Cage”. A Faraday Cage is an enclosure formed by a conducting material that causes the electric charges within the cage’s conducting material to be distributed away from the inner cage. A cage within a cage. 


Picture courtesy of Rolex

Picture courtesy of Rolex


As can be seen from the picture, the shield inside the Oyster is labelled with the letter “B”, with an arrow above. This is the symbol for magnetic flux density. I am beginning to sound like Doc from "Back to the Future!" The shield is made from ferromagnetic alloys that surround and protect the movement.


The movement itself also benefits from the innovations that Rolex developed (mentioned in one of my blog posts) related to the use of innovative paramagnetic materials, including the blue parachrom hairspring.


Picture courtesy of Rolex

Picture courtesy of Rolex

So, now we have some of the history, some of the specification and some of the innovations. What about the watch itself? What about the modern Milgauss? Doing this review has allowed me to take some detailed scans of the Milgauss – something I had not done properly until now. I will admit that for several months, I had trouble wearing the watch because I felt the lugs were very “heavy”. There appears to be a lot of metal. I tried it on a Nato strap to mitigate the amount of metal that appears on the watch, and to be fair this worked. Initially, at least. But then I put the bracelet back on and discovered I like the watch as it is meant to be. 

So, let us start with the bracelet - made from 904L steel and with polished inner links. The polished inner links are not to everyone’s taste. I think when a watch has an overtly sporty feel, the brushed polish nature of the typical bracelet fits perfectly. But with the Milgauss, the watch does not have an overtly sporty feel. It has elements of sportiness. It is more cerebral than most Rolex watches. It is also more funky. It is quirky. 





The shape of the case is similarly “special”. The curvature of the case actually makes it much easier to wear.






But now, lets get to some of the features that make this watch so desirable. Top of the list for me is the lightning bolt second hand. Note that it is a deeper orange than the lume at 3, 6 and 9.







And of course, what matters most of all is what does it look and feel like on the wrist? There is nothing much at all that looks or feels like a modern Milgauss. It has such a distinctive dial, depth and features that makes it special. To be frank, it doesn’t look at all like a Rolex. 





As previously mentioned, there are three different versions of this Milgauss. There is a standard white or black dial. The third version, which I have the pleasure of owning, is called the Glace Verte model (GV). This particular version has a green tint to its sapphire crystal. Lets be blunt….. such a feature is so out of character for the typical Rolex that one wonders how it ever happened. Further, it may be that the nature of the tinting process prevents the Rolex coronet being laser-etched into the crystal at 6. If anyone has a GV that has the security etching, please let me know.











What is it that makes this watch such an enigma? As Nicolas has named it…The Rasta Rolex. The green and orange combination is striking. The lightning bolt second hand is….er (pardon the pun) striking. It has elements of sportiness, but only a limited amount. It is quirky and funky. It is like the Professor who dates a supermodel. It has a complication that I am never really going to need, but oddly I am happy that it is there.

Credit filmmusicart.blogspot.com


When I am asked what modern Rolex do I think it is worth owning, I have to say that the Milgauss 116400 comes at the very top of my list. 





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Comments: view entire thread

 

Thanks Chris....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-10:39
......such a fun watch to write about.

Thanks for summarizing the history of a watch we don't often discuss, Baron.

 
 By: amanico : May 22nd, 2013-10:50
The Milgauss... Not loved during its lif, admired and sought after since its death, like major artists... A reference to get for every Rolex Fan. At least a 1019, and a 116400 ( GV if, IMO, the mosr desirable because of its unique crazy look ). Ok, the 65... 

I'll give you a....

 
 By: Epilogue : May 22nd, 2013-11:53
....1st degree honour for your essay on Electromagnetism! Thanks for the write up Joe! Makes me desire the Milgauss.

Yes. Your wish list is growing

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-13:06
And yes, I now know what a Teslar is!

...

 
 By: Epilogue : May 22nd, 2013-13:55
It's growing but doesn't mean I'll have loads. I think around 14 is a good number and I have to try them all before settling down with my favourite 14. Unfortunately...I don't think the "normal" 1665 is part of them....next stop: Daytona Beach

Well,

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-13:58
If its 14, a Sea-Dweller would need a place but it is correct to say a straight 1665 would need more spice. Some red, I would suggest.

There will be BLOOD...I mean...red writing for sure.

 
 By: Epilogue : May 22nd, 2013-14:17
Would like to try PP, UN, DB, HW....I think I need to manage my expectations a bit more :p From a collectors point of view is it justifiable to say that the straight 1665 is a little boring? That's how I feel when I look at it...

Honestly

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-14:21
I don't think that is fair at all. A 1665 is a great watch and by no means "ordinary". Ok, are there more exotic 1665s? Sure, but that is hardly a good way to judge a watch. There will always be a bigger fish. True in every situation. I don't think any wa... 

Thanks...

 
 By: Epilogue : May 22nd, 2013-14:27
for your honesty. Of course I know the history and the innovation behind it and why that's important so of course I agree that it's an icon...all I'm saying is that I'd like to try something new. But you're right, was foolish of me to call it boring :)

Great portrait

 
 By: Mark in Paris : May 22nd, 2013-12:01
It's a very original watch and quite distinctive in the Rolex world. Thanks for the job Baron. Cheers, Mark

like you and Nico here...

 
 By: gensiulia : May 22nd, 2013-12:01
...i'm a obsessed by 1019! but I definitely want to try this modern Rolex. Thanks for this one just a scan to loose our brain. (photo courtesy revorbaro) ...  

The 2d from the left, for me please. ;)

 
 By: amanico : May 22nd, 2013-12:02
1967? Best, Nicolas.

i'm not so expert...

 
 By: gensiulia : May 22nd, 2013-12:16
...but i guess that the rail dial is not the first one produced... the last one on silver is surely a first series, with the small Rolex. plus, the first and second 1019 show flat hands, the last ones the first series. another shot, same source.... (court...  

The 1019

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-13:24
Is one that is almost top of my wish list. Maybe just 2 ahead of it. I have missed buying it about 3 years ago, coming stunningly close.

In Rolex world, just one ahead of it

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-13:28
5512 two-line guilty.

That reminds me of

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 22nd, 2013-13:49
Agent Smith in the Matrix. His "virus" speech.

Naaah. A Hublot.

 
 By: amanico : May 22nd, 2013-13:35

I covet this watch

 
 By: cazalea : May 26th, 2013-20:23
I have often wanted this one and I frequently try to catch one when they come up. But something has kept me from closing the deal (and I don't mean the Mrs). Perhaps because I wonder how it would look with GV on a white dial Milgauss. That would require m... 

I'm Magnetized For Milgauss. Thanks Baron!

 
 By: patrick_y : May 22nd, 2013-13:54
An awesome young Rolex, for those who are mad scientists! Thanks for the review Baron! Always liked this piece.

Miranda...

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : May 23rd, 2013-13:02
...I guess we may have to wait some time before a new model Milgauss is conceived?

A great post about a watch that I don't pay attention ...

 
 By: nilomis : May 27th, 2013-13:59
Before reading your wonderful explanation. For uncountable times a Milgauss (green or a white dialed) was offered to me and, I confess, I didn't even care to handle it. Next time, thanks to your post, I will pay the attention that this piece truly deserve... 

Yes, you should. This is an uber cool Rolex.

 
 By: amanico : May 27th, 2013-14:02
And, for once, it changes from the sempiternal Subs, GMTs and Daytos! Best, my friend, and welcome to the Milgauss Club! Nicolas

Only when we have some security here ...

 
 By: nilomis : May 27th, 2013-15:41
Rolex is the choice of 10 in 10 criminals here. I like to wear my watches I don't want to make me and family a target. Until that day, Rolex is. No no for me. Meanwhile I go to appreciate posts like Baron's. Cheers, Nilo

Milgauss

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : February 11th, 2014-12:00
Let me get one thing of my chest first: the rasta nickname SUCKS! It is not only stupid as the colors have nothing to do with the rasta green, yellow and red. It also doesn't make sense because history-wise it is a science/professor/industrial watch. Plus...  

Well.....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : February 11th, 2014-12:13
Nicknames happen....and they happen because they catch on. The Rasta name has, even though you hate it, caught on. I can't claim the credit for that! I think the watch is very different from many Rolex. I also think, with the use of the green glass, that ... 

Well, you said it at the end ...

 
 By: Mostel : February 15th, 2014-19:02
You'll never need it or use it for the purpose created, but there is a strange abstract comfort, confidence we find in extreme construction.

+1 on much what you said.. For me, the Millie GV is one of my best loved Rolex's.. :)

 
 By: hs111 : February 16th, 2014-13:10
.. you said it, she is a versatile choice - the colors always make me smile, so does the lightbolt in orange and the differently lumed 3,6,9 - something quite "unlike Rolex" ,but at a 2 nd look, you realize her uber- cool appeal .. Furthermore, as someone...