Rolex GMT Master 2 - Reference 116710. The "Bruiser"

Jan 02, 2014,09:33 AM
 

It has been bothering me for a long time. I look at my collection of Rolex and something just keeps bothering me. I look at my collection of JLC, and oddly the same nagging feeling is just NOT there. I have been trying very hard to figure out what has been bothering me about Rolex. It occurs to me that during 2013, I bought a number of JLC. The Amvox1. The Reverso Rouge. Prior to that I took the Navy Seal. Also a vintage Mk11 came. Three modern watches and one vintage.  I look at my Rolex additions, and I see the 5512 and the 6200. What I don’t see is any modern additions. Then, when i look at my overall collection, I see just two modern Rolex amongst myriad vintage. I own the modern version of the Explorer 1 and the Milgauss GV. These latter two were bought some years ago. What is nagging me is my inability to find satisfaction from amongst modern Rolex. 


But, with the 2013 release of the GMT Master II (Reference number 116710BLNR), a watch that has become lovingly known as the “Bruiser” courtesy of its black & blue bezel, I saw a watch that caught my attention. On seeing the release from Basel, I said on this forum that my instinct was to like it. A few weeks later, I had the opportunity to see it in the flesh and try it on. And, for the last several months, I have been paying more and more attention to it. I have had it on my wrist three times now. I used to argue that the Milgauss GV was the only great modern Rolex. I think that such a judgment on Rolex is harsh, but only a little harsh. Rolex gained their reputation for being the architects of the tool watch, for building watches that were highly reliable, extremely well put together and with simple but highly effective innovations. I think the GMT Master II now deserves a full review and one that sets out its case for being the best modern Rolex that is available today. Well, at least my favourite modern Rolex.





Picture courtesy of Rolex

Many manufacturers shout about their innovations and patents. This is something that so often grabs attention because of some quirky but nonetheless captivating complication. This is very much not the Rolex way. Rolex innovations are very pointed, highly focused and geared towards making their watches perfect tool watches. One of the earlier reviews that I did looked at Rolex innovations. I am going to borrow some of that review as it crosses over with the GMT. Lets start with the choice of steel for the bracelet. Back in the 1980s, Rolex discovered that watches that had been taken in the sea sometimes had water trapped in some of the caseback threading. Sitting in these threads for years (presumably between services), the chemicals in the water caused a reaction with the 316L steel that was used at the time….causing corrosion and pitting. Rolex tested the steel and found that it was susceptible to certain types of corrosion.


With the Submariner 168000, Rolex moved to 904L, a steel with a different composition – containing more nickel and chromium. Furthermore, 904L is also more resistant to chloride. Since it would be expected that a Submariner would be used in the sea, switching to a steel that was especially resistant to the chloride in the sea seemed straightforward. But actually, it was far from straightforward.


904L stainless steel is harder and much less easy to machine than the typical steels used in most watches. As a result, Rolex needed to redesign all of the tools used in the steel as well as deploy machinery that could machine the harder steel. The 904L is more resistant to rust, corrosion and pitting. Its brush-finish (which also requires unique tools) is also very resistant to scratches. Many watch manufacturers take pride in being responsible for 100% of the manufacturing of their in-house movements. Rolex deals with its steel issues by operating its own foundry, developing its own tools, and using materials which set it apart because going the extra mile on reliability is what Rolex are aiming for. 904L is, naturally, the choice of steel for the GMT Master II. In twenty tears time, the 78300 Oyster bracelet will be looking like new still.





Picture courtesy of Rolex

The bezel, however, is what really grabbed my attention. The Cerachrom innovation had, of course, been developed in more recent Rolex watches (from 2005). It is patented specifically to Rolex. As my former review describes, the Cerachrom bezel is made from an extremely hard ceramic material. It is essentially scratch-proof and its colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays (so it won’t fade with exposure to the sun). To inscribe the numerals and graduations in such a hard material, Rolex developed and patented a unique process. To quote Rolex…..“The numerals and graduations are engraved or moulded before the ceramic is hardened in an oven at 1500 degrees celsius. Then, the Cerachrom bezel is entirely covered with either gold or platinum, atom by atom, and polished until only the precious metal in the numerals and graduations remains, permanently. It takes 40 hours to produce a ceramic bezel.”


Such an innovation for the bezel is, of course, a nice addition to the features of the watch. But, what the vintage collector crew had been calling for was a watch that had echoes of the fabulous GMTs of the past. The 6542 and 1675 two-tone marvels of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. Nicolas has done some fabulous reviews of the vintage GMTs. See link:  

rolex.watchprosite.com


There is no question that other manufacturers, in fact most of the bigger players, have come to realise that there is a tremendous market for modern tributes to classic and iconic vintage pieces. One only needs to look at some of the major successes for JLC and Tudor to see how warmly modern tributes are received. One should also not forget that whilst Patek Philippe do not release “tributes’, there is nonetheless a high degree of affection for modern releases of watches that carry high DNA traits of vintage classics. Audemars Piguet. Longines. The list is endless. Vintage Rolex is replete with iconic watches. The scope for Rolex to capture some of these historic vintage pieces through a modern take is enormous. It is not surprising, then, that so many vintage Rolex lovers were calling for a two-tone Cerachrom GMT. 


The problem for Rolex has been that the Cerachrom bezel doesn’t lend itself too readily to two-tone variation. The nature of the manufacture process makes it extremely difficult to create a two-tone outcome. However, Rolex managed to do so, and in doing so created another patent. Being formed of just one single piece of Cerachrom, the initial material starts out as completely blue. During the earlier stages of production, the Cerachrom is permeable, and so black can be added to it to create a two-tone bezel. Many people have asked if it is possible to create a blue/red bezel. Never say never, especially to Rolex innovators, but since both blue and red are primary colours, it would appear extremely difficult to see how this combination could be achieved. One could, conceivably, see a red Cerachrom that subsequently has black added to it to create a red/black variant, but it seems logical to me to argue that black will always need to be at least one of the two colours. Throughout its vintage history, we have seen various colour combinations on GMTs, but there has never been a black & blue bezel until the release of the GMT Master 2 in 2013. I think it is fitting that this modern marvel has its uniqueness.





Picture courtesy of Rolex

With the black & blue embedded into the Cerachrom, the bezel is then allowed to cool. Once cooled, the hourly graduations are engraved into the surface and then coated with a layer of platinum via PVD. The result is a virtually scratch-proof, fade-proof monobloc bezel that will almost certainly look as it does today in 20 years time. No other GMT has had this blue/black combination. On the wrist, it looks fabulous. Ok, it doesn’t have the flamboyancy of the vintage Pepsi GMTs, but I think what it lacks in flamboyancy, it gains in stylishness. It is demure rather than showy. Conservative rather than liberal. Black and blue are highly complimentary colours. They look great together. I could see myself wearing this with a suit just as easily as with a pair of jeans and loafers. Yet, it has enough of a feature with its black and blue Cerachrom to make it distinctive. And fun.  


I have thought about this long and hard, which is why I am releasing this review ahead of any new innovations at Basel. For me, I think it is not relevant if a Pepsi version arrives (and I don’t believe it will!). I have come to truly appreciate the allure of the black and blue - night and day. So appropriate for a GMT. I am not convinced that a modern Pepsi would be as attractive. It would need to stand comparison with the numerous stunning vintage Pepsis that abound today. I would find it difficult to love a modern Pepsi dial as much as a beautifully patinated vintage Pepsi. It is not as if vintage 1675s are so high in price that a modern alternative is the only option. The “Bruiser”, on the other hand, has no base of comparison. It is its own identity. 


Moving onto the specifics of the watch, the next aspect of it that I like is the case size. For those with large wrists, it is plausible to wear watches at 42mm+ with ease. I have one or two watches in that category. My wrist size is 6.75 inches. I can just about get away with 42mm depending on the depth of the case. With this GMT at 40mm, however, it sits almost perfectly for me. I am not sure what represents the perfect size for a case for me, but i suspect 38-40mm is the range. This one works very well. 


The GMT-Master II houses the calibre 3186, which features the Parachrom hairspring. Conventional oscillator hairspings are typically made of ferromagnetic alloy, which leaves them exposed to magnetic fields and shocks. After 5 years of researching the phenomenon, Rolex invented the blue Parachrom hairspring. According to Rolex…”Crafted from a new paramagnetic alloy, this hairspring is unaffected by magnetic fields and remains up to 10 times more precise in the event of shocks.” The Paraflex system that is adopted in many Rolexes aims to create a form of shock absorption that limits the impact of shocks substantially. Again. Rolexes attention to build-quality and reliability stands out. 

But with this GMT, there is more. There is the small attention to detail that makes such a difference. Take the bracelet. I appreciate that the steel is no ordinary steel, but the 78300 Oyster bracelet also embraces an Easylink clasp offering a 5-mm comfort extension. For someone with a smaller wrist, such as myself, having the flexibility to make very small adjustments for comfort makes a lot of difference.

Another small detail is the use of blue chromalight lume. It gives it  something unusual and interesting. My JLC Navy Seal has a blue hue to its lume and to be honest, it just looks awesome. Having the 24-hour hand matching in blue too adds another attractive aesthetic. Small things matter. The hands are made from 18k white gold. No chance of them showing signs of rust in 20 years time. This is a watch that has been built to last.

I like this watch. I like it a lot. The longer I have studied it and the more often I have tried it on, the more I have come to realise that it offers a great deal as a modern Rolex. I think its black & blue bezel is a perfect discretion. I think the use of Cerachrom adds enormously to its appeal. From the comfort of the bracelet to the innovations of its movement that make it not only superbly well put together but classically Rolex in its reliability. In one sense, the two-tone bezel is a wink to its historical ancestry. On the other hand, this watch stands on its own two feet. It doesn’t need its iconic GMT ancestry to stand out as a superb modern Rolex. Is this the best modern Rolex to have been produced in the last decade? I am rapidly moving to the view that it is. Would I describe it as "great"? No, its not a "great" watch, but it is a very cool, under-the-radar, effective GMT. Not many watches do travel as well as Rolex...simplicity...reliability. 


Will this be my first purchase of 2014? Of that , there is no doubt. 



This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-01-02 09:37:19


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Comments: view entire thread

 

Outstanding article, Joe...

 
 By: amanico : January 2nd, 2014-09:59
First of all, I saw somethere a black and blue insert, so I am not sure it existed... Or not. To be confirmed... Or infirmed... Back to this 116 710, now. What I love a lot, on this Watch, is the bezel. Its warmth reminds me the bakelite bezel of the 6542... 

The Way of Truth!

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 2nd, 2014-10:12
LoL I think there is a chance that you see a black/red GMT in 2014...but blue/red...uhm...no. Historic black/blue....i would like to see that conformed. My guess (and only a guess) is that it didn't happen. Would like to see!! Surprise with me? Well, this... 

Great review to savour

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 2nd, 2014-10:37
I understand when you say no blue+red ceramic would bring what a vintage Pepsi bezel does. But among all the Rolex clients, I think the majority doesn't possess or is looking at vintages. Thus, the new blue+red Ceramic bezel could be a single novelty that... 

Great review, indeed, and...

 
 By: Anatol : January 2nd, 2014-11:16
... the GMT 116710 is certainly the one Rolex with big case I like the most! It has really improved the looks to add some blue and remove some green. A really nice watch!

Mr. Baron, my hat off to you! This is a very nice.....

 
 By: Sandgroper : January 2nd, 2014-11:23
review and for me very instructive. I have to say that like you, I love the combination of the Blue/Black bezel. As a matter of fact I didn't know that Rolex had never made this colour combination before, hence I liked the sight of it straight away. As yo... 

Aaah, FYI, the time zone in Geneva is the same than in Paris...

 
 By: amanico : January 2nd, 2014-11:29
So, +1 GMT Time, which is London Time... This had to be precied, as you soon take the train, and I would not like see you taking the wrong one! :) Best, The Vaudois. Nicolas

Thank you for reminding me, I still had it set.....

 
 By: Sandgroper : January 3rd, 2014-00:29
on The Valais time zone which is muuuuch slower:);) Hopefully 3rd time lucky, I will board the right train at the right time;) Cheers my friend Francois

LOL! We'll see. ;)

 
 By: amanico : January 3rd, 2014-00:38

Francois

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 2nd, 2014-13:22
Thanks for those kind words. The thing is, O'Neill opinion of this watch changes once it is on the wrist. If you like the look of it on a scan, then there are good odds that it will snare you once on the wrist. I always give a watch the "jeans" test. If a... 

O'Neill opinion,,,,Jeans test!...hmmmmm....

 
 By: Sandgroper : January 3rd, 2014-00:54
Don't know about O'Neill, haven't seen him for yonks but my test is Always on the wrist..so Jeans or whatever doesn't influence my choice;) As a matter of fact I have noticed that every time one tries a watch at an AD or Boutique the sales person always h... 

Show us all, Mr Monthy! ;)

 
 By: amanico : January 3rd, 2014-01:20

at least a PM will do

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-05:15

Bad luck!!!!! Went today to 3 Rolex AD.......

 
 By: Sandgroper : January 3rd, 2014-09:49
in Geneva to checkout the GMT Master II "Bruiser" and it was out of stock........ Next time;) Cheers Francois

I think Miranda already visited

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-09:50

she is sneaky like that

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-10:16

very good post...

 
 By: gensiulia : January 2nd, 2014-11:36
...I have not had the pleasure of trying the new color scheme, I wore a friend's black bezel some weeks ago... I want to be progressive, I will not speak of the polished bracelet, or about the fat lugs. i'm a sub/sd guy and that's not a secret, but i real... 

great write up

 
 By: Ryan5446 : January 2nd, 2014-11:43
who knows this will be a desirable vintage model one day.

I have never owned nor tried a Rolex Joe.

 
 By: MichaelC : January 2nd, 2014-12:03
But I can say for sure, I will try this one on. The blue works great on this watch. Maybe my first Rollie? We'll see. Great article here, thanks!

Thanks Michael

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 2nd, 2014-13:16
I think once irt gets onto your wrist, it will start playing with your head! I always get a good feeling about a watch if I just can't help looking at pictures of it. If, a.fter the pictures, I try it on and still find myself looking at pictures, it's a b... 

A brilliant article …just one thing, it's known worldwide as the Batman

 
 By: Miranda : January 2nd, 2014-12:21
Bruiser is just not worldwide And in the spirit if Rolex we needed a more universal title! :)

Miranda

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 2nd, 2014-13:12
I remember very well when you posted your Basel review. It was indeed you who coined the Batman nickname. However, and please correct me if I am mistaken, but I believe your Batman was a response to my suggestion of calling it the "Bruiser". To your knowl... 

I first heard the moniker of "bruiser " at Baselworld …

 
 By: Miranda : January 2nd, 2014-14:14
It was coined by a British journalist The moniker of batman I wish I could say was me but actually first appeared on timezone and rapidly followed on the rolexforum The ensuing debate resulted in batman, to which I must confess I contributed and stoked th... 

Bruiser Batman

 
 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : January 2nd, 2014-15:05
I like that name best Imran ;) Well done Joe post to savour with glass of Whisky ...single malt of course Damjan just doing that :)

Uhm...

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-05:41
.....it was me who told the journalist about the name "Bruiser".....i claim the origin!! Are you getting one? What surprise?

No problem....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-07:19
.....its what everyone says about me....i am really good at being patient.

Thanks for the wonderful review!

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : January 2nd, 2014-17:27
A friend of mine got this GMT Master II when it was first available in Singapore and it looks and feels awesome in the metal! After reading your great review.... I am tempted to get one myself! It may well be my favorite modern Rolex too. Love the colors ... 

Make sure you post it if you get one...

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-05:40
.....interesting that you agree with the idea that it looks even better in the flesh....

What a Superb article.. Enjoyed every bit of it.. In fact.. :)

 
 By: hs111 : January 3rd, 2014-05:21
..if I am honest, that one has a very strong allure to me, as well. And as I "only" own a modern MillgaussGV, a Datejust ( which actually has gone to my wife..), and my good trustworthy (1978) Oyster Date, as a go- between Vintage and Modern, - But no GMT... 

Nicolas...you are right...

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-05:37
....I can see the "Bruiser" becoming a community watch. H.....keep me informed if/when you take the plunge on the GMT!

Of course.. I will duly do so, with pleasure.. Just have to figure out.. :)

 
 By: hs111 : January 3rd, 2014-05:51
.. whether another Vintage ( eg 1675 or such) gets on top of my R - list, or your "Bruiser/ Batman ", and I have to say.. At present, the chips are more to the favor of this 116710, which I really like; maybe also, as this black/ blue (and staying " under... 

H...

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-06:00
.....yes, i have more Rolex than JLC, but not by a large margin....30% JLC.....a high proportion

Re: The "Bruiser"...

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : January 3rd, 2014-12:54
Great write up, Baron! :) I must confess that from the current collection that would be my pick as well... Best Blomman

I think.....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : January 3rd, 2014-13:34
Many will wait for Basel hoping for something special like a Pepsi and it just won't be there. Then the black/blue will be back in focus. I am getting my order in next week. ,!,

I will bet on your bet, my friend. I agree with you.

 
 By: amanico : January 3rd, 2014-13:39
I just have to make my mind on the Black, or black and blue... Best, Nicolas

Thanks for the wonderful write-up

 
 By: lhanddds : January 3rd, 2014-14:13
I really like the new bezel. Unfortunately the watch still comes with, what I consider to be, overly large lugs. I owned the previous GMTIIC for about a year and a half and could never get used to looking at it. I only own vintage Rolexes now and I have a... 

Remove the bracelet, and try a Nato, you will certainly be pleased.

 
 By: amanico : January 3rd, 2014-14:19
I totally understand your feeling. The larger lugs and th narrow bracelet really disturbed me in 2007. Since, I got used to that... Best, Nicolas.

:))) - !!!.. Smart move.. BTW..

 
 By: hs111 : January 4th, 2014-04:10
.. I've got my appointment Wednesday, We'll see ;) best, hs

GMT BLeu-NoiR is a must have

 
 By: passetemps : June 4th, 2014-01:01
Hi Baron et al., I am not sure if it is correct to respond to a 4 month old thread but i really liked your review of this watch. As for Rolex, i am a modern-submariner lover. I currently own a WG SubC (116619LB) from 2008 (one of the first ones released) ... 

Hey Frank.....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : June 4th, 2014-01:43
.....very much looking forward to seeing the live scans of it on your wrist. Comngratulations....obviously I tend to agree with you on this watch. Best, Joe