Rolex

2014 is without any doubt a milestone year for Rolex because for the first time for many years, the Manufacture gives the proof of a true ambition on the segment of the dress watches with the presentation of a new Cellini collection (12 watches for 3 models, 2 materials and 2 dials). This is certainly not the first promising foray of Rolex in this segment in recent years. After all, the Cellini Prince watches are quite successful thanks to their inspiration from the Prince of the 20s and their off-centered dials. But these Cellini Prince are rectangular watches and the potential of customers remain very small compared to that of round watches.

Personally, I have always found extremely bland the round Cellini including the Cellinium, the most famous of the collection. It gives the feeling that Rolex, yet totally comfortable with the Oyster, is struggling to find the right recipe for its more elegant watches. The proof is that I find it hard to define what are the key elements of style of the round Cellini watches today since they don't have a true identity and they don't share a lot of common points. It is not surprising that customers go to other brands that are perceived as references in the segment. Rolex could not allow this situation to continue because in a highly competitive market, it is very positive to add any new growth vector. These new Cellini are part of this strategic approach that aims to restore Rolex credibility in this segment while expanding its offer.



The Cellini collection which has just been unveiled at Basel consists of three watches: the Cellini Time, a 3 hands piece with a central seconds hands, the Cellini Date proposing the date display with a hand housed in a sub-dial located at 3:00 and the most interesting (at least for me) of the collection, the Cellini Dual Time which features a second 24 hours timezone display. Each watch is available in rose gold or white gold with a black dial or white dial. If we compare these new watches with the other round watches of the Cellini collection (What will be their future by the way?), the improvement is obvious: undoubtedly, Rolex sends a strong signal and affirms its convincing return to the world of dress watches. Several reasons explaining this success can be given.



Firstly, Rolex managed to build a coherent collection: the 3 watches share many details like the case diameter (39mm), a two-level bezel whose lower part is fluted, also a fluted crown, applied long indexes and logo without forgetting the full slightly domed solid caseback. The feeling to belong to the same family is accentuated between Cellini Date and Dual Time due to the use of a sunburst guilloche dial, the famous "rayons flammé de la gloire."

Then, Rolex has created a kind of aesthetic link with some Oyster watches by the re-use of subtle details. The fluted bezel and crown fall into this category. By observing for the first time these new Cellini, even we hide the logo of the brand, we can guess that they are Rolex watches. This seems trivial but this use of codes of the brand will certainly be a success factor. On the opposite, for example, it is absolutely impossible to know that Rolex is behind the current Cellini offer.


The perceived quality contributes naturally to the positive feelings generated by this new collection. The case is perfectly designed with the two levels bezel which provides us wth a beautiful visual effect. The applied indexes and numerals bring a touch of energy to the different dials: it emanates from these watches a balance, a harmony, a classic charm without sinking them into boredom. And of course, the last asset which comes to my mind is the trust that the Rolex name embodies. No question to ask about the reliability or accuracy of the movement with Rolex, they are basic features of any caliber coming from the Manufacture. The movement that powers the new collection is derived from the 31xx family as evidenced by the presence of blue spiral Parachrom and we find logically its standard performance with a frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 48 hours.



The balance seems clearly on the positive side by combining a more ambitious and rejuvenated aesthetic approach with all the quality criteria of the brand. The new Cellini appear to be highly desirable watches ready to mark the segment with the Rolex footprint. However, I think that our vision, our feeling are a little disturbed by the fact that they are such a step forward compared to current Cellini that we can see them  more beautiful than they actually are.

Let's take for example my favorite of the collection: the Dual Time. Here comes a watch that has a useful complication (a second time zone display) and which deals with it cleverly and effectively. The second time zone is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o'clock that incorporates on its left side a small window with a day and night indicator. The second timezone hour is easy to adjust with a simple handling of the crown and readable without difficulty: the complication is handy and useful, all the Rolex spirit is there.



But I expect more from Rolex on this topic: I would have imagined such a display that could handle countries like India ... or even Nepal which have timezones with gaps of several quarters. I do believe that for such an innovative brand like Rolex it is pity to get on this watch a second timezone display with just a "hour step" and not not a "quarter step". Even the competition is now able to provide finer adjustments of the second time display. I'm always thinking about India and its half hour gap: brands have to take more consideration to this country which represents now a huge potential of growth for the watch industry due to its population.


Moreover I would like to know what Rolex is capable when it comes to movements decoration. If the technical finishing of Rolex movements is excellent, these new Cellini would have been able to give an opportunity, like the Cellini Prince which have see-through casebacks, to unveil their wheels and bridges and to go further with the decorative aspect. The caseback is solid (its slightly domed "vintage" style is definitely nice) and I felt a kind of frustration when I turned over the watch. On this segment, customers like to enjoy the sight of a beautifully decorated movement. If the solid caseback makes perfect sense on an Oyster, does it have the same role, the same importance with these Cellini? Can a 50 meters waterproofness justify it? I obviously understand the policy of Rolex that it is always oriented towards performance and efficiency. But a brand, in this context, has to be able to shake its principles just to escape from the logic box.



Finally, the new Cellini including this Dual Time leave me a slight feeling of incompleteness. They clearly are a big improvement when compared to the current Cellini collection, they are distinguished by their charm, their balance. Their case diameter (39mm) is ideal in this context. However, I feel that Rolex could have gone further in the technical or decorative territories.

But let's stop complaining! The Rolex quality remains, and also the power of attraction of the brand. I'm sure these 3 watches, with their undeniable strengths, will find their place in the segment of elegant watches. Taking into account the "firepower" of Rolex, these Cellini represent now a strong competition for brands which are not used to find the "famous crown" in front of them.

I would like to thank a lot the Rolex team for the warm welcome at Baselworld 2014.

Pros:
+ At last, Rolex unveils convincing round Cellini!
+ An ideal size (39mm)
+ The quality of execution (case, dial)
+ The readability of the second timezone display
+ The reliability and precision of movement

Cons:
- The solid caseback in this context
- I would have expected an adjustement of the second timezone display with a precision by quarters to be able to handle countries like India or Nepal

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