Rolex

Baron - Mr Red
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Rolex Milgauss 1019 Review

The very first Rolex Milgauss was provided through the two references 6541 and 6543, produced in the mid-1950s. These are watches of great rarity. My quest, however, for the last 5 years has been to find the Milgauss model that followed from these prior references. Namely, the Rolex Milgauss 1019. I have hunted one of these for 5 years, yet, for one reason or another always seemed to miss my target. Up until now. And now, I can give an initial review of this Milgauss 1019. But before that, a quick on-the-wrist shot of the latest addition to my collection. Taken during a brief rainstorm in the UK.

The Milgauss 1019 first appeared in Rolex literature in August 1960. That is the earliest reference I can discern evidencing the reference’s existence. The original Milgauss, as a reference, was very clearly aimed at the professional - the scientist. For those working in an arena where electromagnetic fields came into play (such as laboratories, power plants etc), the potential impact on a watch’s accuracy was significant. To counter this problem, the Milgauss used anti-magnetic alloys and by casing the movement in an iron shielding, protected it from the impact of anti-magnetic fields. An advert from 1960 interestingly describes those professions needing the watch as doctors, nurses, masseurs, laboratory personnel…… see the advert below!

Most of the Rolex watch references had a specific audience. The Submariner, Explorer, GMT, Sea-Dweller, Daytona….all these styles had a particular audience in mind. And each of them had something of the adventurer about them. James Bond. SAS. Mount Everest. Pilots. Deep sea explorers. Paul Newman. Race drivers. Yes, its not hard to see why Rolex has captured the imagination. When you put a Sub or a GMT or Daytona on the wrist, something of that magic seeps in via osmosis! But the Milgauss was different. It too had a specific audience, but that audience did not have the same feel at all. No, the guy who buys the Milgauss is a very different animal. 

The Milgauss has more of a cerebral aspect to it. Having said that, the Milgauss is almost the epitome of function. There is nothing superfluous about the 1019 Milgauss. Pure function. The watch is all about reliability. In fact, I would argue that it is a watch that has the “taking care of business” aura. 

The 1019 was subsequently produced between 1960 and 1989. The 1019 has a fairly conventional look about it, but also something “of the 1970s” feel too. Retro. It came in either black or (brushed) steel dial. The word “Milgauss” is written directly below the Rolex legend. Over the years, the dial underwent small variations in terms of material for hands as well scale graduations. The style of the hands also underwent some change. Earlier hands were polished with a central ridge whereas later versions were flat an unpolished. Likewise, the use of lume was not always mandatory. Early version, notably the ones associated with Cern did not  have lume, though I remain to be convinced that it was not possible for some early versions to have lume. It is certainly the case that early brochures offer the 1019 “with or without luminous markers.” The steel used in the 1019 was the 304L, with the L indicating the low percentage of carbon in the material.

Coming with a Calibre 1580 movement, engraved “1580” on the bridge of the self-winding mechanism, 26 jewels and beating at 19,800 per hour.  Case diameter of 38mm, water-resistant to 50m and able to withstand a magnetic force up to 1000 Gauss (mille gauss). Coming in at slightly smaller than the Sub, the 1019 is less overt....its not hiding at all, but its not needing to be bigger to fulfil its purpose.

Chronmeter. No date. No numbers. Self-winding. Waterproof. Amagnetic. Yes, this is a watch that asks for nothing. Its purpose is to do a job. Without fuss. Its raison d’être is its reliability. Taking care of business.

For me, one of the hardest decisions (and one of the reasons it took me so long to pull the trigger) is whether to go for black dial or brushed steel. They are two different styles for sure. The black dial is somewhat cooler…more sporty in fact. The red writing on the dial and the red tip arrow to the second hands offsets really well against the black of the dial. The brushed steel, on the other hand, is just that bit more in-keeping with the scientific theme of the watch. Over the last 5 years or so, I was closest to pulling the trigger on a brushed silver dial, though foolishly let it go….that was 5 years ago. I have been tempted on both dials since. The other hard decision is to go with the original ridged hands or the later flat version. In the end, I went for black dial and flat hands…..my version is almost certainly one of the verst last 1019s made. It comes with original box and papers. The papers show it was sold in Lugano in 1990, suggesting manufacture in 1989. I believe 1989 was the vestry last year of production. 

What do I like about this watch? I will say this….there are plenty of watches that grab my attention. Yet, when I put them on my wrist, I just don’t get the same thrill. On the other hand, there are some watches that don’t grab the attention in the same way, yet when they are on the wrist, I just cant take my eyes off it and it stays on my wrist for a long time. When its not on my wrist, I will be thinking about when i can wear it next. In a perfect world, my collection would be full of these latter types of watch. The 1019 is in that category. It is my taking care of business watch. Its not flashy. It can be worn equally with a business suit or with a pair of jeans casually. 

But now for some more scans.

Look at the way the red writing "pops" on the black dial. To be honest, I think this was a big factor in my decision to go for the black dial.

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