Remember we are dealing in vintage Rolex

May 13, 2012,17:10 PM
 

There are no hard rules and experience is our only reference.

To answer a few of you questions.

We are talking about watches that are 30, 40 or more years old so even unpolished comes in many conditions.  This is not like factory new watches where we stress over the most minuscule hairline scratch which is self is just from rubbing you case with your sleeve.  So for me I am calling unpolished a watch that has not had polishing wheel applied to it which would remove metal.  The fact that the case has scratches or dings still can be unpolished it is not "new looking".  Polishing cloth to make her look shinny will not really remove anything noticeable.  May if it is done monthly for 25 years.  Again there are grades and conditions for unpolished which would be how was it preserved meaning how much wear did it get.

The "thick lugs" - desirable yes measurable - difficult.  There is no real standard and even with a specific model range for a 60's case vs a 70's or 80's they will be different.   And as I mentioned earlier the cases are for sure asymmetrical.  If you have four identical lugs it would be highly unusual.  Again we are talking 60's through 80's I am not versed beyond that period and as always I expect others will have even more details than I do.  So again you question of standard for case reference nothing in concrete.

How do we judge what constitute fat and thick for which a premium may be assigned.  It is mostly having seen other examples and or having the chance to compare models side by side.  Take a friend with you how has a nice example and compare to the one with the seller.  The examples I showed above was not a good example vs a bad one.  The example I showed as one that may have been polished is an excellent example with fat lugs.  It had bevels and was great example.

Look at the lug holes are they circular or oblong
Look at the bevel on the case does it taper as it reaches the crown or is it more of an even distribution across the side
How close is the lug hole to the bevel and to the edge of the lug.
How sharp are the edges on the underside. 
How much meat is around the crowns is it a tight fit
If the case look new and unworn and it is 30 years old it may be too good to be true



Too many aspects to consider.  Like with papers we don't wear them and unpolished case is nice find but it does not mean you put it in a safe.  It just means you don't send it in for polishing and enjoy it.

Bill

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A case primer for the Rolex 1675 - "Unpolished"

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-10:26
We all know that the dial condition is essential to the quality of a watch. And then next thing is the case. How many time have you heard the claim unpolished case. Probably more times than you can shake a stick at. How can you tell if a case is truly unp...  

Long Live...

 
 By: gensiulia : May 13th, 2012-10:39
...Long E! chris

Fantastic but not so much because...

 
 By: Epilogue : May 13th, 2012-11:37
...I now believe that my watches have been polished. Great post

When the watch stands alone she is perfect

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-11:53
no matter if it has been polished. The information I put up was more of a guide or a standard to measure against other cases and the one I compared it to looks great by itself nice and thick lugs with a worn bevel. But when she stands next to the bench ma... 

Very helpful article, Bill.

 
 By: amanico : May 13th, 2012-11:45
Even if I am always " in doubt " when I read the words " Never polished ". I'd say that the watch you show is a superb example of a case in awesome condition. Has it been very lightly polished before, it is hard to say. The tactile test is also important,... 

The feel of the case in your hand counts

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-11:51
In addition the watch has a very tight bracelet I 70 that is almost unworn which is also anecdotal evidence that this watch has had very little use on the wrist. I would say it is 10% used. No matter how good the watchmaker is he has to remove some metal ... 

Great comparison post..

 
 By: hans_jorgen_1968 : May 13th, 2012-12:09
... I don't miss anything, but for the sake if it could you add the actual thickness in mm or any other measure. Because for sure if a watch is getting polished will there be some material taken away. What is left, is less than what it should be.. I'm unf... 

Case measurements

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-12:40
These measurements are conclusive in sofar as comparing these two example but there is no standard to measure against. If anyone has a similar 1968 1675 pleas try and add some measurements. The last picture I borrowed from the web Credit to Anatol. You ca...  

This could almost be a thread in itself :-)

 
 By: hans_jorgen_1968 : May 13th, 2012-12:49
Something I like as an engineer Thanks But you are right, they are diffiult to measure Best Hans

Bill, I have seen a number...

 
 By: Anatol : May 17th, 2012-01:55
...of diagonally asymmetric 5513 from around 1.5mio serial. These very early matte 5513 from 1966 have quite "rough" cases, e.g. around the crown guards. The dials feature "puffy" tritium rather than the later flat tritium. I am currently wearing mine, an...  

Bracelet wear other evidence

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-12:53
Look at the bracelet wear to also judge how much action the case has enjoyed. I obscured the numbers a little. Bill...  

Hi Bill! This is a most interesting and informative post...

 
 By: Subexplorer : May 13th, 2012-13:44
... very well illustrated indeed. Your adding of photos with caliper measurements, complete your information. This is a very complex thing to evaluate most of the time, where deffinitively, the experience of the collector helps so much. Thank you for shar... 

Thanks Bill of a very informative post.......

 
 By: Topcat30093 : May 13th, 2012-13:58
For we novices, this sort of information is paramount when looking for a new vintage piece. I also learnt that the lugs on the crown side were of a different size to the other side. Regards Tony

Always a pleasure to share

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-17:16
Whenever I can find interesting aspect that I have learned I always enjoy sharing them in the same way you and the other members here do. It was an unusual opportunity to find this prime example and I happened to have the camera ready. Best Bill

Wonderful post Bill....!

 
 By: Mech : May 13th, 2012-16:22
What constitutes a 'polished'/'unpolished' case? Would you classify one which was done 'at home' with a polishing cloth as one? and how much 'polished' could one be done this way? Usually I would take this as 'shinning' rather than polishing. So if such s... 

Remember we are dealing in vintage Rolex

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-17:10
There are no hard rules and experience is our only reference. To answer a few of you questions. We are talking about watches that are 30, 40 or more years old so even unpolished comes in many conditions. This is not like factory new watches where we stres... 

Thanks for the clarification Bill

 
 By: Mech : May 13th, 2012-18:14
you've provided us alot of basic tips in fact, they're applicable to collecting all vintages. I'm learning everyday! Thanks Bill Mech.

Puts everything we read...

 
 By: fernando : May 13th, 2012-16:58
about 'fat lugs','unpolished' into perpective. Your pictures illustrate the point clearly. Thanks for the heads up, very useful information to digest, especially when on the hunt for 'vintage'. cheers fernando

This is not to say unpolished is king

 
 By: Bill : May 13th, 2012-17:14
Or that unpolished is the best. Really you want a good example that has not been overly polished. The lug holes are nice and round with a nice space from the edge. A serve by an expert watchmaker can do a great job in restoring watches with only a small a... 

Having just re-read your post Bill...........

 
 By: Topcat30093 : May 14th, 2012-23:11
I now realise how much very useful information it contains. IMO this post should remain, fixed to the right of the forum, as a quick reference guide for any member considering buying a vintage Rolex Regards Tony

Agreed - Good reference material should be linked

 
 By: Bill : May 14th, 2012-23:14
There is a feature on the right column. I am sure it will be applied. Thanks for your kind words and support. Bill

Someone considering getting a Vintage Rolex...

 
 By: amanico : May 14th, 2012-23:18
You mean... you? Welcome to the club, my friend. It seems that you're ready for that! Best, Nicolas